Cauldron of creative energy on the Med.  Best of the sights, informative listings with "ten of the best" recommendations.  Baroque belltowers and futuristic museums.  Where to eat, drink and sleep.  Long, golden beaches and hip barrios.  Best of the festivals: from fiery Fallas to saucy Tomatina. Detailed maps.  A much-loved parrot, the world’s biggest yacht race, and a stairway from heaven....