Malta and Gozo draw over a million visitors each year. Tiny though it is, Malta has an extraordinarily rich historical and cultural heritage. Set at the crossroads of numerous Mediterranean sea routes, it has been coveted and colonized by many different maritime powers. The most glorious phase in its history was the 268-year reign of the Order of St John, whose legacy can still be seen in the fine buildings that survive. The first impression, if you come in summer, is a dry, barren, treeless rock. The other striking factor is the scale of the development, which spreads out in all directions. Conscious of this, the island is now working hard to boost its image. The 1990s saw major renovations of hotels, particularly those in the four- and five-star categories. Gozo, meanwhile, carries on at its own gentle pace. If peace and solitude are priorities, this smaller, greener island provides the perfect escape.